The Queen of Láswa

By Noel Galon de Leon

If you’ve been following my column for the past two weeks, you probably know I’m currently on a diet. Gone are the crispy lechon and rich sisig. My plate these days consists of chicken breast, boiled eggs, oatmeal, and the superstar of my diet — láswa. For those who aren’t familiar, láswa is a traditional Ilonggo dish, a rich and hearty vegetable soup made from whatever ingredients are fresh and abundant. It’s a pure, simple meal, a literal bowl full of nature’s bounty perfect for a health-conscious lifestyle or for a community that values simplicity, practicality, and nourishment.

A clear broth filled with colorful veggies: kalabasa, okra, talong, alugbati, kamote tops, sometimes with tiny freshwater shrimp or snails tossed in. It’s a meal that’s light yet satisfying, rich in nutrients, and a perfect match for a plate of grilled fish or a piece of chicken. But this isn’t just a story about food, it’s a story about love, and a woman who brings it all together: Lola Mary Ann Escanillas.

Don’t let the “Lola” title confuse you. She’s not your typical elderly woman sitting quietly in a corner. Lola Mary Ann is energetic, strong, and full of life. Whenever I need a warm bowl of home-cooking, or a bit of soul nourishment, I walk over to her place, we live in the same subdivision, and there it is, a meal made with pure love.

During the months I lived in Guimaras, láswa was a daily fixture at our table. But now, back home and on a diet, it’s a whole new experience. My meal plan, prepared by Coach Dawn, includes a small bowl of láswa alongside a piece of chicken for both lunch and dinner. Surprisingly, I’m not sick of it. I look forward to it each day. It’s light, savory, rich in nutrients, and it makes me feel good from the inside out.

I’m blessed to have Lola Mary Ann, alongside her son Eugene, who is my gym buddy, prepare this meal for me daily. It’s not easy to cook day in and day out, but she does it with patience, generosity, and a deep understanding of what food should be: a way to nourish, heal, and bring people together.

Curious about what makes her láswa so special, I asked myself: What exactly goes into it?

From what I observe (and from Coach Dawn’s meal plan), the key veggies are okra, tugabang, balatong, and balunggay. Rich in fiber and nutrients, they’re perfect for someone on a high-protein diet and a great aid to smooth digestion. This highlights a few key Ilonggo values, such as closeness to nature, practicality, and unity, because láswa is a communal meal made from whatever the land provides. It’s a meal that reflects a rich agricultural lifestyle and a deep-rooted culture of making the most from what you have.

Some variants add small freshwater shrimp, snails, or a bit of bagoong, depending on where you are. In Guimaras, tiny snails are a popular addition. In Iloilo, freshwater shrimp bring a rich flavor. In Negros, a dash of ginamos adds depth. But whatever the variation, the base stays the same: pure, simple, and made with love.

This kind of cooking embodies the soul of the Ilonggo people. They are hard-working, creative, and connected to their land and traditions. The ingredients come from nearby fields and rivers, and the cooking is simple, without needless oil or heavy seasonings. Just a bit of water, a pinch of salt, and a whole lot of love.

So, you might be wondering what makes Lola Mary Ann’s láswa so much more special. To me, it’s the love and care in her cooking. There’s no magic ingredient, no MSG, no fancy techniques — just pure, honest cooking from the heart. Her hands prepare it with patience. Her soul adds a rich thread of love. And when you taste it, you’re not just tasting veggies in a clear broth; you’re tasting home, tradition, and a lifelong story of generosity.

So, here’s a toast with a warm bowl of láswa. To Lola Mary Ann, the queen of this simple yet majestic dish. To all the home cooks who keep traditions alive. To food made with love. To a way of life that finds richness in simplicity.

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Noel Galon de Leon is a writer and educator at University of the Philippines Visayas, where he teaches in both the Division of Professional Education and U.P. High School in Iloilo. He serves as an Executive Council Member of the National Commission for Culture and the Arts-National Committee on Literary Arts.