Spirited Away in Jiufen

By Christian George Acevedo

Jiufen is a small town in Taiwan and is said to be the inspiration of the fantastical world depicted in Studio Ghibli’s “Spirited Away.” Nestled in the mountains of the Ruifang District, Jiufen was once a gold mining town. Today it is famous for its narrow alleyways, red lanterns, teahouses, and sweeping views of the mountains and the sea. The town’s unique atmosphere and charm have led many to believe that it served as an inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki’s beloved film.

Off to Jiufen

From Ximending to Taiwan, I took the Taipei Metro from Ximending until I reached Zhongxiao Fuxing Station. From there, I took the bus 1062, which ends at the Quanji Temple. Travel time took approximately an hour and 20 minutes and revealed sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean on one side and the rugged mountains on the other, especially when the trip approached the coastal areas.

I decided to alight at the bus’ last stop at the Quanjji Temple. Built in 1896, the temple houses Taiwan’s largest pure copper statue of Guan Gong, the Chinese god of wealth, standing at 10.6 meters in height. This impressive statue depicts Guan Gong reading the “Spring and Autumn Annals” and serves as a prominent landmark, overlooking Jinguashi with the mountains as its backdrop, facing the sea.

Quanji Temple serves as a starting point for several hiking trails, including the popular Teapot Mountain Trail. I would have liked to try the hike, but I only had limited time in the area. Then I headed to Jiufen.

Jiufen had seen its better days as a prosperous mining town during the gold rush era. During the Qing Dynasty, nine families settled in the remote village, hence its name “Jiufen,” which literally translates to “nine portions” in Chinese. With the discovery of gold in the late 19th century, Jiufen transformed into a bustling gold mining town, attracting miners from across Asia. By the 1930s, Jiufen had become a thriving town with restaurants, tea houses, and busy streets, especially during the Japanese occupation, which left a lasting architectural influence. Although mining activities declined after World War II, Jiufen’s charm remained intact. Its popularity was later revived as a tourist destination thanks to its unique ambiance and nostalgic appeal.

Exploring Jiufen Old Street

One of Jiufen’s main attractions is the Old Street, a labyrinthine alleyway filled with traditional shops, eateries, and teahouses. Red lanterns adorn the street as it winds up the mountain, creating a charming and enchanting atmosphere at night. Along the Old Street, vendors sell food, souvenirs, local crafts, and other stuff that might pique the interests of tourists.

Jiufen is renowned for its traditional tea culture, with several teahouses offering tourists the famous local brews while enjoying a panoramic view. One of the most iconic teahouses is A-Mei Tea House, which became famous for its semblance from the tea house in Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away. Although Jiufen did not officially inspire Spirited Away, its similarities have drawn Ghibli fans worldwide, contributing to the town’s charm.

In Jiufen, I felt time stood still. The stories of old Taiwan seemed to have come alive and welcome all who seek a connection to something timeless and beautiful.

Christian George Acevedo is an author, librarian and educator based in Roxas City, Capiz.